Electric Bike Hub Warranty Information
Electric Bike Hub Warranty Information
We stand behind our product at Electric Bike Hub and our manufacturers stand behind us. The eZee products we offer are guaranteed to the consumer for material and manufacturing defects in all the components and motor itself for two years, with minor exceptions. Our frames are guaranteed for 10 years. The battery is guaranteed under a specific performance calculation for 2 years.
Our institutional and commercial guarantee varies according to the industry. Commercial and institutional buyers should contact us for specifics.
Our Forza off road bike is guaranteed for one year.
Please note that while our bikes can be productively used within the 300 average wattage New Zealand regulation, there may be methods of use that would exceed this technical designation for periods of time out of the control of Electric Bike Hub and eZee Kinetics. These companies cannot envision all the uses or high load uses the bikes can be driven to by their owners. It is the responsibility of the purchasers of eZee electric bicycles to use them in a way that complies with the New Zealand regulations. Neither Electric Bike Hub nor eZee Kinetic will be held responsible for the uses and applications that exceed the laws around their use.
We do the servicing, if any, at our distributor location in Nelson Wellington, Christchurch and Auckland, and we stock replacement parts and whole units there too. See the sections below for details.
The kind of manufacturing problem that we cover are:
- Damage to freewheel mechanism
- Sheared side covers
- Damage to gears in eZee hub
- Faulty ball bearings
- Broken spoke flange
- Faulty connectors.
Specifics of things that it would cover:
Frame– Our frames are guaranteed from breakage for 10 years. This is for normal usage and does not include abuses and crashes.
the eZee controller, when used with the eZee hub, and powered by our 36volt-48volt batteries, is covered for two years. This warranty only covers the controller when used with our 36V or 48V battery packs with our own hub motors.
Other things that are covered:
- Severed wire inside the controller pcb
- Random shorted mosfet when not caused from an axle spinout
- eZee controller showing LED flash pattern
We aim to please, but we do have limitations on wheel kits that are installed by the buyer. For instance, the following would not be covered by our motor warranty:
- Water damage: Submersion of the components, even on well sealed units will allow water to creep into the workings of the motor and connections and are not covered under the warranty. This is simple for us to see and its simple for you to avoid. Ezee kits are made to run in the rain but these are above water units and cannot be laid in puddles. Water causes corrosion and malfunction of several other components. Opening the unit and drying all the interior usually solves the problem but must be done before usage after water migration.
- Axle Spin-out and the related problems with the installation. Perhaps the most common reason motors need servicing is because the axle is not correctly installed and restrained from spinning in the bicycle dropout. That is an installation issue and not a faulty motor issue. In fact, it means that the motor is doing exactly as it should. You can get axle spinout from: forgetting to adequately tighten the nuts, regen systems can cause nuts to loosen, lack of a torque arm for systems that need a torque arm, inadequate dropout strength, etc. When a spinout occurs, it can damage the threads on the axle, it can sever the motor phase wires, it can short the phase wires against your hall sensors and fry the hall chips, and it can also cause your bike to crash and have other consequences. All of these things can be repaired, but none will be under warranty.
- Overheating damage: While our Ezee motors can work beyond their power rating for short periods of time, prolonged overloading will cause overheating and burn off the wire insulation. Damage from heat caused by overloading is not covered and while we do everything to make this a rare issue, you should keep the wattage on the motors at 1000 watts or below, even then for short periods. Typically the owner will become used to the loading issues and will pedal harder on the steepest sections of a climb.
- Broken Spokes: Spokes on any bike, even our strong Ezee wheels, need to be adjusted after a break-in period of about two weeks riding. Not doing so can load individual spokes to the breaking point, At any rate, we cannot cover road damage due to lack of spoke tension.
- After market parts like mirrors and the cateye and Cycleanalyst computers are covered by the individual manufacturer and are not duplicate covered by us. Contact the manufacturer for assistance with these items.
- Controller issues hings that are not covered:
- Controller that fails when used with 3rd party motor system
- Corrosion of connectors from water exposure or submersion
- Controllers that are modified.
- Bikes assist units that are built using multi-brand components.
- In no event will Electricbikhub.co.nz be responsible for direct or consequential damages, including, without limitation, damages for personal injury, property damage, or economic losses, whether based on contract, warranty, negligence, product liability, or any other theory.
Battery warranty specifics.
The battery and charger warranty is 2 years, and covers things like:
- Faulty BMS circuits that trips below rated current or cause premature pack cutout
- Pack that delivers less than 66% amp hr. retention of original battery rating on a 5 amp discharge test. We have this expensive battery testing device in our facility
- Internal cell tab weld coming loose
Warranty does not cover:
- Lithium batteries that have self discharged from being uncharged for an extended length of time.
- Water damage, which does not affect the cells but can lead to unreliable BMS circuit behavior.
Rules for Charging your Battery
1. The charger must be plugged into the battery before turning it on to assure that it reads the condition of the battery monitoring system. This monitoring happens in the first two seconds when the charger is plugged in. Once everything is plugged in, THEN turn on charger.
2. Our fast charger has its own cutoff function when the battery is reading the proper charged voltage, but we do not recommend that you rely on this for long periods. Best practice is to get a timer to plug the charger into so that it will turn off after the normal period of fully charging and remove the possibility of the charger being left on. Typically for a 14 amp hour battery you can set the timer for 3.5 hours and it will top the battery up, the charger will turn itself off, and the power will be removed from the circuit after that 3.5 hour interval.
3. When sliding the charged battery back into the bike do so with care to not drop or slam the connections or the battery.
4. When reinstalled and powered on with the key, all five power button lights will indicate a fully charged battery.
5. To enhance the life of your battery, charge it at the end of ride or at the end of your riding day. The batteries do NOT have a memory so it is the not like the old days when people used to run batteries right down before charging.
6. If you are not using your bike for long periods, re-charge the battery once every three months.
Powering the Bike On
During power on, the battery monitor will do an initialization with all the LED lights on for 2 seconds before entering normal operation.
Reading the Monitor Power Levels
The upper row of LEDs shows the state of charge of the battery. As you continue to cycle and the battery power drops the numbers of LED lights showing will decrease. If the battery level shows ‘red’, think about how far you need to go and plan to recharge. There is no problem with running the bike with only the red LED showing. Think of it as a fuel gauge; you can run the bike right down well into the red, before considering that the power assist will cut-out.
There is an averaging circuit built into our battery monitor so that it shows the voltage over a period of one minute rather than instantaneously. This makes for a more accurate measure of remaining battery power available but can be somewhat misleading on long hill climbs. In such a situation, the power draw will lower the voltage for the entire averaging minute and then the battery lights will read lower power than is really available. When you are riding on the flat again or you stop, the monitor will gradually show the accurate indication of remaining battery power.
Power levels are shown by the lower row of blue lights on the monitor and indicate the level of available pedal assist. There are 5 levels of assistance as indicated by the number of blue lights showing. Use Up▲ or Down▼ button to increase or decrease the level of electric assistance needed.
Note that with no lights showing, the bike motor is essentially off and will not respond to the pedaling sensor or throttle.
With the lower levels of pedal assist, the power assist may be less noticeable to the rider, because it is a smaller proportion of the power needed to drive the bike forward. Many riders hardly notice the lowest levels of assist, but dramatically notice the upper levels. In these high pedal assist modes, they have well exceeded their own pedal input and will go faster than they could with pedaling alone.
Getting Maximum Distance per Charge
1. Keep tyres inflated to specified pressures. This cannot be over-emphasized.
2. Avoid wearing very baggy clothes because of wind resistance.
3. Use the pedals when starting from a standstill as this is the time when batteries are drawn down the most. Your battery life will also be extended.
4. Go moderate speeds. The faster you travel, the more wind resistance and strain is placed on the battery.
5. Use Pedal Assist on hills. By all means, use the motor to conquer hills, but assisting the battery will greatly increase your range. This is true on the flats as well, and even light pedal pressure can remarkably improve the distance achieved.
6. Warm weather makes batteries discharge more abundantly, so expect higher speeds in warmer conditions and greater range as well. Keeping the battery in a warmer condition will make the bike peppier on cold mornings.
A good first start is to check the manual for normal operation. Please remove simple confusion over how the bike operates from the trouble shooting inspection. The second thing is to check the easiest parts of the bike to address. If your bike battery has an external fuse on the battery, unscrew this and try a new one (supplied with the bike)as a test. Look for disconnected plugs on the wiring leading to the monitor (mounted on the handlebars) and look for cables that have been pulled apart for any reason. If the bike has been crashed, look for pulling of the cables leading down the front fork to the motor. 90% of all problems are fixed just by this inspection of cables and re-plugging these as necessary.
Switch the ignition key off and on again to initialize. Note the appearance of the start up process on the monitor. (See Powering the Bike On above). Check the LED light on the controller for blinks or steady operation. Note the result and if a problem still persists send to the company at email@example.com or take it by your eZee retailer. We want you to be happily using your bike, so don’t hesitate to ask for help.
Any other problem with the non-electronic bike components will be a normal mechanical adjustment done at any bike shop. Our specific eZee retailers of course , can all do these bike operations, and would be happy to assist.
eZee has built high quality and low maintenance into the components of the bike. We do recommend getting the bike looked at for spoke, gears (on derailleur models) and brakes after a period of 2-3 months after purchasing. The interval for a bike shop inspection after that can be yearly with the exception of the following wear items.
1. Brakes. The adjustment and replacement of pads on the brakes has to do with wear and does not need to be done at a regular interval. If you use the bike a lot on hills, check the brakes, cables and pads more often. Look and listen for any changes in brake function and have a shop (or yourself) change pads as necessary. Having a bike mechanic look at this twice a year is a prudent schedule. All the eZee stocking shops will be happy to help with this.
2. Chain lube. This is also related to use and terrain. Dusty or wet conditions require more lubrication of the chain than others. We recommend wax based chain lubes for dry climates and oil based chain lubes for wet climates. Using regular motor oil is inadequate for this lubrication.
3. Tyres. Inflation of the tyres will make a huge difference to the range and longevity of wheel components. The Schwalbe road tyres that come on most of our bikes are top quality, and require 60 psi for longest life and greatest distance traveled. The Big Apple tyres and some mountain bike tyres are inflated to about 40-45 psi depending on your weight and riding preferences. Note that the correct maximum inflations will make the bike travel maximum distance on a charge. Note that the tyre pressure is printed into the rubber on the side of the tyre for easy reference.
4. Washing. Light washing is good, but never use a pressured hose to wash any bike, but especially our e-bikes. Pressured water will get past the seals and water resistant parts of your bike and cause problems. A light brushing with mild soapy water and a rinse is all that is required. Waxing will indeed repel dirt, however, if you wish to take this step.
5. Spokes. These need tension adjustment infrequently but are important to have checked after the first 2-3 months of riding and once a year after that. We recommend that you go to a trained bike mechanic for this adjustment.
6. Roller disc brake service. Most of our bikes have Shimano roller disc rear brakes (as on the NZ postal bikes) and these clever units require special grease to work well. Putting grease on a brake shoe system may surprise you, but any bike shop will know the proper and easy service of this popular brake. If your brake squeals, it is a sure sign that the Nexus grease desperately needs topping up.
7. Nexus internal geared hub. These very reliable units need service about every two years. On that interval the fluid in the hub should be replaced and it should be checked perhaps every year for lubrication, depending on amount of use. Most bike shops know how to replace this mineral oil.
8. Puncture Repair. This can often be done with the tube and tyre on the bike. If replacing a tyre or tube, refer to “Front Wheel Installation” section below. It is much easier to repair the tube on the bike with our front wheel drive models. Your first choice would be to have the tube repaired rather than replaced, as removal of the wheel is required for replacement.
Installing or removing the wheels.
When wheel removal is necessary, take photos or diagrams of the position of all the washers and parts, so they can be replaced in identical order. Put marks on the rear wheel washer positions, so the wheel will be tightened in the same location. This operation is more complex than with a push bike and so a bike mechanic could be very helpful. Most DIYers do this themselves, however, and few have had any problems.
Front wheel installation
On some bikes, the front wheel will have to be installed upon delivery. This is an easy operation for a bike shop to do, and if you are purchasing from a dealer, this will already be done for you. It is not difficult for the individual either, if these directions are followed carefully.
1. Unwrap front wheel from its packaging and inspect fasteners on the axle. They are arranged in the sequence that they will be put on the bike. Loosening the nuts will release the parts and make them ready for assembly on the front forks.
2. When tightening, all fasteners should be tightly torqued down with the axle nuts tightened to near full wrench strength.
3. Check brake and bike operation on level ground. The disc brake may have to be adjusted slightly after assembly. This is a very easy fix for a bike mechanic or DIY mechanic, but is not covered in this manual.
Our battery models have been tested and passed the rigorous international standards testing UN 38.3, an expensive (for our company) and important step. Still, all lithium batteries are subject to serious damage from being roughly handled or dropped and carry some risk of operational failure. Sport, recreation and industry use of lithium batteries requires higher than normal care and consideration for charging and operation. If your battery has suffered any drop or abuse, or is showing signs of sluggishness, loss of power, or any sign of damage, it should be removed from the bike and kept separate from your home before sending it to the eZee service centre to test it for faults. Failure to respond to this can cause injury and can be a fire hazard. Because you are using your battery around and about on the roads, you should be mindful of any crash or incident which may impact on the battery and check it for damage.
Care should be taken when charging the battery. Typically this means charging the battery in a place or at a time when oversight is available. The battery should not be left on the charger for extended periods after it has gone through its charge cycle. We recommend that you acquire a timer and follow the instructions in the Rules for Charging your Battery (above).
eZee and Electric Bike Hub take no responsibility for any consequence of failing to take good care of the battery and charging.
Our accessory products and the minor items of the bikes and kit are also warranted against defects in manufacture and materials by the individual manufacturers. Go to one of our service agents for assistance in determining whether the item has failed under a warranty, but these warranties are handled by the manufacturer and not by Electric Bike Hub.
Return Shipping Procedure
You must contact us by email when you have a warranty issue and get an authorization number to return the item. Items sent to us without that number on the outside of the package will be declined. Some problems we can simply send the part required, but you must prearrange any warranty service.
When packaging an item to return under warranty it is important that the packaging adequately protects the item from damage during shipping. This is particularly so for batteries and motors which are heavy and can be dented and bumped during shipping. If you require any advice about how to properly ship a warranty return to us please ask before sending because we cannot be responsible for damage caused during shipping.
We are usually able to diagnose and suggest the remedy for your problem within 3 days of receiving it. We will contact you and explain the repair at that time and get approval from you to effect the solution.
Some repairs are speedy and some internal repairs take a bit longer. We will let you know of the timeline for your repair at the time of approval from you.
Some minor repairs we can help you fix yourself, if you contact us with digital images of the faulty part. This can save us both time and expense.
Warranty Shipping Fees
In the majority of cases where there is a fault covered under warranty, the customer ships the part to us for repair at their cost and we ship the part back at our cost.
Exceptions to this are when the product fails soon after purchase and we can elect to cover the shipping both ways. Other exceptions are when the product is being repaired not under warranty, the repair is so minor that it could and should have been serviced by the customer, or when the item is working fine upon inspection by us. In these cases the customer will be responsible for shipping both ways.